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How to Irrigate a Lawn

March 31st, 2020

How to Irrigate a Lawn

The best practice for irrigating a lawn is to use landscape pop-up sprinklers. The rotator nozzles attach to the pop-up bodies and give you the best and even coverage for your lawn. If you have a larger area to cover, you can move up to the Gear Rotor sprinklers, like the PGP Ultra. The reason we go for pop-up sprinklers over drip irrigation is that though drip is very effective, it becomes very hard to see faults and make repairs.

Have a look at our recommended products for irrigating a lawn

Other important guides to assist you in setting up your lawn irrigation. We will be referring to these guides throughout. 

Measure the Area

The first thing to do is to measure your area that you would like irrigated. This can be either a quick drawing with pen and paper, printing out a google maps image or using software available. This drawing needs to be to scale, have your water source/taps  shown and any objects that may obscure the irrigation, decks, sheds, veggie garden etc

I have created an example plan for us to work through together.

landscape pop up house size
landscape pop up house size

Figure out how much water is available

This can be done with a bucket test or with a flow meter. The Bucket Test is an estimate and not 100% accurate. Flow meters can be expensive though so for us we will do a bucket test. How we avoid the problem of inaccurate bucket tests is to use around 50% of what the total is. If the test gives you 20L/min, you would spec your irrigation to 10 L/min.

(60 / Time) x Litres

Let us say you filled your 10-litre bucket in 15 seconds.

Time = 15 (in seconds)
Litres = 10
So through the equation,

(60/15) x10 = 40

40 L/mn is the total estimate. therefore we will work off of 20 L/pm


Place the Sprinklers

Using the technical sheets provided, you can start placing the sprinklers on your plan. The tech sheets for both Rain Bird and Hunter offer you with the Distances and L/min for each Nozzle Arch.

Using the distances, place markers on your plan where you think the different nozzles should go, aim for good head to head coverage.
Our goal is to cover the whole lawn area, without throwing onto the house or concrete areas. (imagine there is a fence around the property as well, that we need to avoid).

For the example plan, I have used the Rain Bird R-Van Rotators and placed them where I think I can get good coverage. For educational purposes, I have added the spray areas to try and demonstrate the water coverage. Try to get as much of the lawn consistently covered as we can, without throwing into the house, paths or fences. You can't be perfect with every area of the lawn, but the aim is to try and cover the lawn consistently and completely.

landscape pop up spray pattern
landscape pop up spray pattern
landscape pop up spray pattern

For the example below, I have removed some sprinklers from the plan to show the comparison. You can see dry patches throughout the lawn, with grass that would end up dying, leaving a patchy, ugly lawn.

Have a read of the Head to Head Sprinkler Spacing Guide for more information on sprinkler spacings. Link above.

landscape pop up spray pattern
landscape pop up spray pattern
landscape pop up spray pattern

A common question we get is, why so many sprinklers? Can't I just put a strip down the middle doing the whole lawn? Below you can see the disadvantage to doing that. You may save money, but your lawn will die, you'll waste water throwing into the house or on the path (if you have iron in your water this will stain) and you'll end up having to fix the mistake later.

landscape pop up spray pattern
landscape pop up spray pattern
landscape pop up spray pattern

Zone the Sprinklers

Here is where it gets tricky, so if you are having troubles, call our experts on 0800 130 905

In this example, we have given ourselves 20 L/min of water to irrigate the lawn. Each sprinkler requires a certain amount of water to operate optimally. You can see this in the Tech Sheets above.

We have in our plan

  • 17 x R-Van 14 - 90 Degree
  • 20 x R-Van 14 - 180 Degree
  • 1 x R-Van 14 - 270 Degree
  • 5 x R-Van 18 - 90 Degree
  • 5 x R-Van 18 - 180 Degree
  • 5 x R-Van 24 - 90 Degree
  • 2 x R-Van 24 - 180 Degree
  • 1 x R-Van 24 - 360 Degree

R-Van 14

  • 17 Nozzles x 1.06 L/min = 18.02 L/min
  • 20 Nozzles x 2.12 L/min = 42.40 L/min
  • 1 Nozzle x 3.18 L/min = 3.18 L/min

R-Van 18

  • 5 Nozzles x 1.89 L/min = 9.45 L/min
  • 5 Nozzles x 3.82 L/min = 19.1 L/min

R-Van 24

  • 5 Nozzles x 2.46 L/min = 12.3 L/min
  • 2 Nozzles x 4.92 L/min = 9.84 L/min
  • 1 Nozzle x  9.54 L/min = 9.54 L/min

Total Water usage for all the sprinklers is 123.83 L/min
We may need to split the sprinklers into seven zones to get under the 20 L/min limit.

Let's break it down to make it easier to understand and just work on the front lawn, as seen below

Tip: It's best to use the open flow of the nozzle when calculating, even when not throwing that Radius. It is normally bolded in the tech sheet

Front Lawn

  • 3 x R-Van 18 - 90 Degree @ 5m radius = 5.34 L/min
  • 3 x R-Van 18 - 180 Degree @ 5m radius = 10.32 L/min
  • 6 x R-Van 14 - 90 Degree @ 4m radius = 6.36 L/min
  • 2 x R-Van 14 - 180 Degree @ 4m radius = 4.24 L/min

Total = 26.26 L/min

2 Zones are required as we can't run all the sprinklers at once with our 20 L/min. Think of where the pipe will go and what work easiest for you.

landscape pop up zoning

Zone 1 Nozzles (Red)

  • 2 x R-Van 18 - 90 Degree @ 5m radius = 3.56 L/min
  • 2 x R-Van 18 - 180 Degree @ 5m radius = 6.88 L/min
  • 1 x R-Van 14 - 90 Degree @ 4m radius = 1.06 L/min
  • 1 x R-Van 14 - 180 Degree @ 4m radius = 2.12 L/min

Total = 13.62 L/min


Zone 2 Nozzles (Blue)

  • 1 x R-Van 18 - 90 Degree @ 5m radius = 1.78 L/min
  • 1 x R-Van 18 - 180 Degree @ 5m radius = 3.44 L/min
  • 5 x R-Van 14 - 90 Degree @ 4m radius = 5.3 L/min
  • 1 x R-Van 14 - 180 Degree @ 4m radius = 2.12 L/min

Total = 12.64 L/min

Our sprinkler will now work within our range, provide room in case of spikes or shortages. I choose these zones to have the pipes not cross the middle of the lawns and keep the trenches straight lines. We would have to dig under the path to connect the sprinklers, so it was easier to zone the sprinklers close by in one zone.


landscape pop up zoning

Head to Head Coverage for Sprinkler Spacing

March 31st, 2020

Head to Head Coverage for Sprinkler Spacing

The rule for spacing your pop-ups is summed up in one simple phrase, “Head to head”. What this rule means is that your sprinkler should throw from itself to the next sprinkler.
Something you should always try to achieve as this will give you an excellent uniform coverage of water.

There are two main types of spacing for sprinklers, triangular or square, try and follow either of these options, and it will keep things uniform and tidy looking.

Below are some diagrams of sprinkler layouts on typical lawn shapes.

Here are a few examples of how pop-up sprinkler spacing works.


Uneven Coverage
The above examples show what not to do when irrigating an area. The areas close to the sprinkler receive more water than further away from the sprinkler. A common mistake, and the result is uneven grass growth due to overwatering and under-watering. If this was a fenced property or a deck was close by, you would have the sprinklers overthrowing onto them.


Even Coverage
These three examples show the steps to how we recommend you should provide coverage for your lawn. By starting in the corners and working around and using the head to head method, you can see that through the steps we get to a fully covered lawn with little to no overthrow. This method will ensure that the grass receives and even coverage and saving money on the amount of water used. It may cost more initially having more sprinklers put in, but will save you money in the long term, as well as making sure your lawn stays healthy and even.

This example of a large circle area being laid out head to head for maximum coverage and efficiency of water. Notice the dry patches in the variations and attempts to best cover the area.

This is another example of how to cover an area using a triangle pattern. The disadvantages to this though are possible overthrow when trying to close off at the end and the dry patch when trying to correct this.

How to Irrigate a Flower Bed

March 30th, 2020

How to Irrigate a Flower Bed

To irrigate a flower bed you need a sprinkler system designed correctly to ensure an even distribution of water, with a fine enough droplet size that won't damage the plants. This guide we will go over the both the products and installation method to irrigate your flower bed, keeping it healthy and beautiful.

Have a look at the categories below at the recommended products for the different systems.


Micro Sprays

The advantage of going for a micro spray is the fine droplets that are applied. A fine droplet size will not do any damage to the flowers or plants in the bed. When going for a bigger sprinkler (Impact Type Sprinkler) you risk damage to flowers and foliage. Micro-sprays can be attached to adjustable stakes, that can be adjusted so the spray is above the plants to ensure an even distribution of water.

The Vari-Jets are screwed into a Rigid Riser, the Rigid Riser snaps into an Asta Stake, and poly tube connects this set up to the lateral line. This gives you great flexibility both in height and positioning of micro-sprinkler.

The disadvantage of going for the micro-spray is the smaller radius of throw. You'd need more sprinklers to cover a larger flower bed. A Pop-Up Spray may be more beneficial in this situation. The other disadvantage is the stakes and tubing needed for the micro-spray will be above ground, and if you are an active gardener you will need to be aware not to puncture the lines.


Bad Set-up

  • If bumped when gardening it can enlarge the connection into the pipe
  • If connection wears, leaks will occur at the join.
  • Will have to remove the spray, plug the leak and find a new position for the spray.
  • Nozzle will quickly get overgrown, becoming ineffective
  • Hard to keep the spray vertical due to lateral line twisting
  • Spray directly into the nearby plants causing puddling.

Poor Set-up

  • If bumped when gardening it can enlarge the connection into the pipe
  • If connection wears, leaks will occur at the join.
  • Will have to remove the stake, plug the leak and find a new position for the spray.
  • Static height and position.
  • The nozzle may get overgrown, becoming ineffective
  • If plants get too high you will have to fit an extension to keep the nozzle above the plants
  • No way of keeping the sprayer vertical due to lateral line twisting

Best Set-up

  • If bumped when gardening it won't affect the pipe connection due to the flexible tube.
  • Adjustable heights with the Asta Stake and Rigid Riser.
  • Adjustable height of sprayer means you can always keep it just above the plants, to ensure even coverage and not being an eyesore.
  • The position of the micro-spray can be adjusted depending on plant growth, due to the flexible tube connection

Each micro-spray has a different size throw distance, so make sure you read each product for their specifications. The Vari-Jet Micro-Spray that we are using has a spray range of 1.5m Radius.


Pop-Up Sprays

Hunter sprays are another good alternative for the flower bed irrigation due to the fine droplets that are applied by the nozzle. Similarly, with the micro-sprays, the droplets are smaller and won't damage the petals of the flowers.

Depending on the location of the pop-ups and plant type, you may require the 300mm pop-up bodies to allow the spray nozzle to get above the plants. The big advantage of the pop-ups with spray nozzles are being able to bury the system and have a discrete irrigation system. If the plants are too high you may need to use a poly riser post instead of a pop-up body. The poly risers will be like the micro-sprays system and be an above-ground application.

The sprays have a variety of throw distances, so make sure you select the nozzle that fits for your garden. The range goes from 1.2m to 5.2m radius.

If you need to get higher than 300mm, then you may need to move from the pop-up body to a poly riser stake with a shrub adapter. The advantage is you can go much higher, the disadvantage is it is visible.

If the beds are narrow enough, you can place the pop-ups in the lawn area spraying onto the beds. Thus allowing no pipework/sprinklers within the flower beds. The result of this is no damage will occur to the piping from digging or preparation.


How to Irrigate Pot Plants

March 27th, 2020

How to Irrigate Pot Plants

An irrigation system for pot plants is easily achieved and can be concealed nicely, keeping the plant lush and alive. The biggest issue with pot plant irrigation is getting the lateral line close to the pots as well as keeping it tidy and concealed. Below we will discuss the effective ways to water the pot plants as well as ways to hide your pipes to have a beautiful flourishing display.

Have a look at the categories below at the recommended products for the Potted Plant systems.



Shrubblers are a small finger stream type sprinkler that waters a small area inside the pot. Very common for use in pots or veggie gardens. Pressure compensated shrubblers are the recommended option as the non-PC sprinkler have no way of gauging how much water is being delivered per sprinkler. A shrubbler has the advantage of having a spike with a 4mm poly tube inlet built-in, allowing for flexibility in positioning around the pots. An in-line shrubbler is available that has 4mm poly tube inlet and outlet to allow your shurbblers to be installed in a series.


  • Flexibility in positioning with 4mm poly tube inlet.
  • 360 and 180-degree options available
  • in-line option available
  • Small watering area allows for direct watering
  • Little water wastage due to no overspray (Not spraying leaves or affected by wind)
  • Pressure compensated option available (recommended)


  • Non-pressure compensated option has no gauge of how much water is being used.
  • Hard to adjust multiple shrubblers to the same flow rates
  • If the cap is opened for max flow, the cap is easily blown off.


Drippers are a direct and easy way to keep your plants irrigated. Delivering the water directly to the root zone, at a lower rate. The lower application rate allows the soil to soak up the water more efficiently. Most drippers are pressure compensated to give you an accurate water output per dripper. Take apart drippers are available to allow for easy disassembly for cleaning, should it become blocked.


  • Flexibility in positioning with 4mm poly tube inlet.
  • Take apart drippers allow for cleaning
  • Small watering area allows for direct watering
  • Little water wastage due to no overspray (Not spraying leaves or affected by wind)
  • Pressure compensated option available (recommended)
  • Lower application rate allows for better distribution of the water in the soil profile.
  • Can be buried under the soil.
  • Either installed directly into the lateral line or off a flexible tube.


  • Non-pressure compensated options have no gauge of how much water is being used per dripper.
  • If buried too far under the soil you may not see if the dripper is working.
  • If used with Flexible tube, it must be secured within the pot, using a pot stake.


If possible, drilling a hole in the bottom of your pot can give you a discrete way to hide the pipes. Allowing you to bury the pipe underground (if possible) and coming up from underneath. Otherwise, you can either extend the lateral line up the side of the pot or have the 4mm tube running from the lateral to the pot.

With the drippers, you can also have the dripper inserted into the lateral line or use 4mm tube as a means to deliver water adjacent to the lateral line. This method may require a pot stake-holder or optionally a spray stake. (seen below in products used)

The 4mm poly tube maximum length that can be run before friction loss is estimated at 10m.
For an accurate calculation call our experts on 0800 130 905

Rotators VS Sprays

March 26th, 2020

Rotators Vs Sprays

The most popular pop-up sprinkler nozzles are the Hunter MP Rotators and the Rain Bird R-Van's. This type of sprinkler nozzle is referred to as a rotator; it has finger streams of water shooting out, which then rotate around the head of the nozzle. In comparison to the spray head nozzles, these use a typical fan type spray to cover the area.

The significant benefit in the rotator sprinklers is that they use less water and have a lower application rate, ensuring there is no water runoff. Using less water per nozzle will enable you to run more at a time you are therefore saving money in having no runoff and reducing the number of zones required.

Hunter MP Rotator


The MP Rotator's are installed onto any conventional spray head body or shrub adapter. Transforming them into high uniformity, low precipitation rate sprinklers with matched precipitation at any arc and any radius.

Rain Bird R-Van


The R-VAN's engineered to deliver the most efficient coverage while making installation and maintenance faster and easier. The R-Vans work on the same principles of the MP Rotators.


Spray Nozzles

Spray Nozzles were the traditional spray head that was used in the past. It has a fan spray pattern with smaller droplet sizes. Hunter and Rain Bird both have their variations of spray nozzles. The nozzles are adjustable from shut off to a 360-degree spray pattern. Simple to adjust with twisting the top and no tool required.


Rotator Nozzles

Hunter MP Rotator Strip Nozzles


  • Application rates are lower resulting in a better absorption rate by the soil
  • Bigger droplet size doesn't get affected by the wind as easily as the sprays.
  • Lower water usage per nozzle means more nozzles running at the same time
  • Less water used per nozzle = fewer zones needed = saving money
  • A more significant range of throwing distances means fewer sprinklers to cover an area.
  • Fewer zones = decrease in install time, less pipe required, smaller controller needed, fewer fittings.
  • Less expensive once you combine all of the factors.
  • More even coverage in throw


  • Price per nozzle is higher
  • different nozzles are required for different arcs
    • MP Rotator = 90-210, 210-270, 360
    • R-Van = 45-270, 360

Spray Nozzles

Hunter Pro Spray Pop up Sprinkler Bodies


  • Price per nozzle is cheaper
  • Spray nozzles will do from 0 degrees to full 360 degree pattern
Rain Bird Variable Arc Nozzles


  • Uses a lot more water per nozzle
  • Higher water consumption, means fewer nozzles running at one time
  • Fewer nozzles able to run at one time means more zones required to cover an area
  • More zones required = more fittings, more sprinklers, more pipe, bigger controller, increase in install time.
  • More expensive once you combine all of the factors.
  • Water waste is higher due to being susceptible to wind
  • Easy to over water
  • Not as even in coverage
  • Smaller throw distances

Water Usage Comparison


A 4m x 4m Lawn would use 4 x MP100090 throwing 4m each at 90 degrees

MP100090 @ 90 degree = 0.68 L/m per nozzle

0.68 L/m x 4 nozzles = 2.72 L/m

All four sprinklers running at the same time will be using 2.72 litres per minute.


A 4m x 4m Lawn would use 4 x HSN15A throwing 4m each at 90 degrees

HSN15A @ 90 degree = 2.53 L/m per nozzle

2.53 L/m x 4 nozzles = 10.12 L/m

All four sprinklers running at the same time will be using 10.12 litres per minute.

If you had only 10 litres of water coming out of your house tap, you would be able to run 14 x MP1000 @ 90 Degree nozzles at 1 time, In comparison to the Sprays where you would be pushing 4 nozzles.

With this calculation, you can quickly see how the spray nozzles may be cheaper initially, actually cost you a lot more in pipe, valves, controllers, etc.


  • Older systems installed using spray heads that now have a loss of flow can easily interchange to Rotators, to improve efficiency.

How to Install a Pop-Up Sprinkler

March 26th, 2020

How to Install a Pop-Up Sprinkler

Pop-Up sprinklers are the most popular application for residential lawns. In this guide, we will give you the tips on how to install the pop-up sprinkler and why we use them.

Here you can see our recommended category for lawn pop-ups. These products are our most common in both commercial and residential lawns.

Pop-Up sprinklers are a disguised and effective way to keep your lawn beautiful and alive. The sprinkler is buried below ground, with only the head shown. The head is flush with the soil, below the grass. Once popped up, the sprinkler's stem rises above the grass to irrigate.

This strip of grass below will be our example. Below you'll see the correct fittings required to install the pop-up sprinkler.




  • The top face of the sprinkler should be flush with the soil
  • Make sure the sprinkler is installed vertically, else risk uneven watering
  • Use the same trench dug for the pipe to lay the straight through pop-ups to save time
  • Standard lawn pop-ups are 15mm BSP inlet (Gear rotor sprinklers will be larger)
  • Use the swing joints to get closer to walls/fences and corners.
  • If the pressure is too high you will see the sprinkler mist. (may need to install the pressure regulating body/PRS30 or 40)

Straight Line Example

  • A female threaded tee is used in a straight line situation when you want to continue the zone/pipe to run to more sprinklers.

End of Line Example

  • A female threaded elbow is used at the end of the line to finish off the zone/pipe.
  •  It is recommended to dig the trench 200mm out from the edge (easier to dig when digging by hand as well), allows you to get closer to the corner.
  • The sprinkler should be around 30mm to 50mm away from the deck/edging. This allows for tools to be used behind (weed whacker) as well as the grass to grow behind and disguise the sprinkler.
  • When sprinklers are too close to the edge of a path or deck, the grass can die around the sprinkler, due to the roots not getting a proper footing.
  • Unless your sprinkler is under pressure you will not need thread tape.
  • Ratchet Clips are advised on all lateral fittings.

Sprinkler Bodies

The pop-up bodies are effectively the same from either Rain Bird or Hunter. The pop-up bodies are referred to by the height of the stem that rises above the grass: the most popular being 100mm or 4-inches.

Stem Height Options

  • 50mm
  • 80mm
  • 100mm (Standard for lawns)
  • 150mm
  • 300mm

The 150mm and 300mm are handy if you need to rise above a step or low plants. These sprinkler bodies being longer, have a side BSP inlet at the same height as the 100mm, allowing you not to have to bury the pipe deeper for the larger bodies. (In doing the side entry, the check valve/Seal-o-Matic will no longer function)

A benefit to the broad face of the body prevents the sprinkler from shifting from vertical when nudged. Compared to some of the other bodies available, like the PS Ultras that can be susceptible to this.


  • Pack the sides of the pop-up body tightly on installation, to ensure it doesn't move from the vertical
  • Where sprinklers are installed on sloping terrain, the lowest sprinkler will always weep water until the system drains, Check valves can be used to solve the problem (pre-installed or aftermarket)
  • Broader face = less likely to move
  • When changing sprinkler nozzles, make sure the riser has a male thread outlet.
  • Rainbird and Hunter Nozzles both have 10mm female threads. (Toro nozzles are male)

Swing Joint

A common issue that people have with pop up sprinklers is if someone steps too hard on the top of the sprinkler, or a vehicle drives over, it can break the fittings underneath if installed directly onto lateral pipe. The swing joint is designed to combat this issue, giving the sprinkler some flexibility when pressure is applied above. Digging up the pipe to fix a broken fitting is a significant pain, so having a swing joint is recommended. When wanting to raise or lower the sprinkler a connection directly to the lateral pipe will not allow it.

Perfect for getting close to corners or tight spots where the pipe cant reach.


  • 150mm Length - 15mm BSP Threads
  • 300mm Length - 15mm BSP Threads
  • 300mm Length - 1 x 15mm, 1 x 20mm BSP Threads
  • 300mm Length - 20mm BSP Threads


  • When cutting the pipe for the sprinkler position, it will not be where the sprinkler is, rather 150mm or 300mm to either side. (see top view example below)
  • Sprinkler can be located parallel to the lateral pipe, or anywhere up to right angle.
  • It takes less time to install with swing joints than without.

How to Irrigate a Low Maintenance Garden

March 24th, 2020

How to Irrigate a Low Maintenance Garden

The low maintenance garden can be a simple and effective way to elevate your lawn or garden. A well-shaped hedge or flax plant can look amazing and can also have a simple and effective irrigation system to keep them alive and well.

In this Irrigation guide, we will go through the products and installation to get a beautiful low maintenance garden.

Have a look at the categories below at the recommended products for the different systems.

For this example, we will create an irrigation system using dripline for a row of hedges.

Dripline is easily the most efficient and effective way to water your low maintenance gardens. Easily hidden in the garden and giving water directly to the roots. You don't waste the water and dripline if treated correctly will last you years.


  • No overspray onto paths and fences.
  • No issues with leaves, flowers or branches getting in the way and stopping the water getting to where it’s needed


The installation of dripline is straightforward and do-able for any newcomer to irrigation. Dripline consists of many inbuilt drippers in the line. Each dripper will give you a pressure compensated amount of litres per hour. Netafim's Techline is available in either 1.6 L/hr or 3.0 L/hr. The lengths of dripline available are either 50m or 100m coils.

The reason this is ideal for low maintenance gardens is the simplicity in installation and effectiveness in watering. Either sub-surface or above ground the dripline provides water directly to the roots of the plant.

  • Do not use dripline above any weed mat. The mat will cause the water to sit and run off the mat and not get to the roots.


Brand: Netafim.

Pipe Diameter: 13mm

Integral pressure-compensating, continuously self-cleaning, anti-siphon, 13mm brown heavy wall dripline

Domestic & light commercial surface and sub-surface applications

Netafim's 13mm Brown Dripperline is the ideal choice for applications involving:

  • Sub-surface or on-surface installations
  • Slopes
  • High wind areas
  • Areas subject to vandalism
  • Planting areas
  • Curved, narrow, and unshaped planting areas
  • Turf, flower beds, trees, and shrubs
  • Rooftop gardens
  • Green walls
  • High traffic or high liability areas
  • Raised planters


  • Pressure compensating
    • Precise and equal amounts of water are delivered over a broad pressure range.
    • 100% uniformity of water and nutrient distribution along laterals.
  • Continuous self-flushing dripper design
    • Flushes debris as it is detected throughout the operation, and not only at the beginning or end of a cycle; this ensures uninterrupted dripper operation.
  • Anti-siphon mechanism
    • Prevents contaminants from being drawn into the dripper
  • Flexible tubing- Adaptable to any planting area shape
  • UV resistant - Withstands heat and direct sunlight for on-surface installations.
  • Single-hole dripper outlet from tubing


Whether it is for sub-surface application or above ground, the installation remains the same. The only things to consider is how much water's applied to the area. (in this case the roots of the hedge)

We use the snake pattern to run the dripline between the necessary plants. The layout may look like overkill with watering in the middle where no trunks are, but your goal is to encourage root growth. Having drippers spread out between the plants, help the roots to spread and search for more water. Promoting healthy and robust plants and keeping your garden beautiful.

Snake Pattern


  • Simple and effective.
  • Encourages root growth.
  • Direct delivery of water.
  • Perfect for plants that don't need a lot of water.
  • One line = less fittings & less installation time.


  • Not as accurate water distribution resulting in poor root growth.
  • Harder installation to get the dripline between the plants. (if plants are already grown).
  • Least consistent and efficient watering pattern

Parallel Pattern


  • Twice as much water than other patterns.
  • Encourages root growth.
  • Direct delivery of water.
  • A good pattern for water-hungry plants
  • Consistent and most efficient watering for an area


  • Twice as much dripline used.
  • More fittings and hose staples required.
  • Increase in installation time.

Loop Pattern


  • Can accurately see how much water each tree is receiving.
  • Encourages root growth.
  • Direct delivery of water.
  • Easily expandable in need be.
  • Perfect for trees or larger spaced plants.
  • Less dripline used.
  • Larger trees can have multiple loops around the tree


  • More fittings required.
  • Increase in installation time.
  • Requires a mainline of lateral pipe

The loop patterns recommended for larger trees with greater distances between them. The loop allows you to accurately judge how much water is going to each plant base by counting the number of drippers per loop. No wastage in dripline as the mainline is in a lateral pipe.

This pattern also allows for natural dripline extension. If the trees are expected to grow, you can simply join more dripline, via a joiner.


  • Dripline can be buried under dirt, mulch, bark or stones, 1” or 25mm is ideal but can be deeper if needed. (but becomes harder to see if it's working)
  • Do not use dripline above any weed mat. The mat will cause the water to sit and run off the mat and not get to the roots.


For a dripline system to operate correctly, you will need a good filter. The standard filter for a dripline system is the 130 Micron Disc Filters.
Disc Filters are a much better option than the conventional Screen Filter, due to the larger filtration area. A standard Disc Filter will last years where a Nylon or Stainless Steel screen can wear and puncture over time.

The reason we recommend a filter before your dripline is because it may get blocked by larger particles. Once a dripper is blocked, it becomes hard to notice, and your plant gets no water.

  • Please Note: Direction of water flow is moulded on filter body depending on the filter element type. (Disc or Screen)
  • The filter must be installed anywhere horizontally below the pipeline.

Lateral Fittings vs Dripline Fittings

A confusing area around dripline is the size and correct fittings to use. The industry standard for most dripline is 16mm OD and 14mm ID. These use the dripline double barbed fittings. Even though they say 16mm, they're made for 14mm ID dripline.

The dripline we are recommending is 13mm ID, meaning you can use either the standard 13mm Lateral fittings or the 16/14mm dripline fittings. The benefits of using the 16mm dripline fittings, you won't have to use the Ratchet Clips, as you do for the Lateral Fittings because of the double barbs. The cons of using the dripline fittings are they are harder to push in.

Lateral Fitting - Single Barb


  • Easier to insert into the tube


  • Needs Ratchet Clips to secure correctly
Dripline Fitting - Double barbed


  • No need for Ratchet Clips with double barbed fittings
  • Less spending due to no Clips needed


  • Slightly harder to insert into the tube

Tip: Hot/boiling water will loosen the tube for easier insertion.


Pressure Regulating Valve

Pressure regulators are a vital item for any dripline system. If your pressure is too high, the dripline will squeak/squeal or even burst; this is an indication that you need to reduce the pressure.

Putting this at the start of your system can guarantee you get an even distribution of water between drippers.

Recommended operating pressure for dripline is 40kpa - 250kpa



An optional item that can be very beneficial is a flush valve for the end of your dripline system. We recommend having a flush valve in if you are using any water source other than the standard garden tap or house mains. Water from tanks, bores or pumps run the risk of sucking particles through the line, risking blockages.

Even during the installation of the dripline, there are little ways to prevent soil from getting into the line. With the flush valve, you can clean the line and system before use, and close the valve to work as an end plug.


  • It is recommended to flush the lines a couple of times a year, to get rid of any sediment etc that has dropped out of suspension and may accumulate and block the drippers.


Use a hose staple every 1 meter to hold the dripline in place. More may be required if you are doing multiple loops around a plant.

How to Irrigate a Veggie Garden

March 18th, 2020

How to Irrigate a Veggie Garden

There are a few ways to go about watering a veggie garden. Micro Sprinklers, Drip Irrigation and depending on the size of the garden, Spray Sprinklers. Micro sprinklers for the average household are the most common systems. Veggie gardens are an active place for you to dig up, replace and change vegetables. Due to this, dripline is not going to work, it gets in the way of the Trowel, and due to the sizing of common veggie gardens, spray sprinklers overthrow.

Have a look at the categories below for our recommended products for each system.

For this example, we will base our design on an above-ground Veggie Garden, 2m x 1m x 08.m (LxWxH) using the recommended Micro Spray System



With this example, we are not talking about delivery of water to the veggie garden, and assuming you have a water line already or tap close by that can be easily connected

13mm Lateral

Brand: Netafim


  • UV stabilised for long life
  • Suitable for Wetta spray and drip systems
  • Tested to 3 bar pressure rating (43.5 psi)

The pipe commonly used in a veggie garden to deliver the water is 13mm Lateral Pipe. The 13mm Tube is a perfect option as it comes in 25 and 50-meters at a low price. The tube is smaller in size that can be disguised easily. This pipe is rated to 3 Bar/43.5 psi.

19mm Lateral


  • Low-pressure irrigation systems
  • Horticultural
  • Viticultural
  • Landscape
  • Residential


  • 5 Bar rated (72 psi)

19mm Lateral pipe is common is most irrigation landscape situations. If you are planning on doing another area, e.g. your Lawn. You could use 19mm Lateral for the veggie garden as well and save money and hassle with not changing sizes. This Pipe, as well as the 13mm x 100m, is rated at 5 Bar

The graphic below showcases common ways to install the lateral pipe for your veggie garden. If you have the option, you can hide the tube inside the veggie box, giving you a neater look, as seen on the left. The tube can then go straight underground and run hidden to your tap or water source. The other option is to go up and over the box, as seen in the right example. Not as attractive but makes repairs and maintenance much more comfortable.



We always recommend having a shutoff valve for any irrigation system. The benefits greatly outweigh the costs. If you have to do repairs to the sprinklers or a line breaks, you won't have to worry about flooding the veggie garden and act quickly.

See our examples below in how you can lay a ball valve in your veggie garden.


Here is the top-down view of how the pipe and valve are installed for our veggie garden example. Keep in mind that the valve is in a valve box and is buried, leaving just the lid shown, as seen in the example above.


Micro Sprays

The reason we mainly use micro-spray sprinklers for the veggie gardens is the fine droplets that are emitted, along with the size of the throw.
Standard micro or jet sprays throw around 1 - 1.5m, with a lot of customisability in stands and stakes to help install. The Vari Jet Micro Spray is ideal for a veggie garden as it has a flow dial to control range and flow of each sprinkler. Allowing you to adjust the distance of throw, in case it is going too far, helping flush the sprinkler when blocked.

The Vari-Jet's screwed into a Rigid Riser, the Rigid Riser snaps into an Asta Stake, and poly tube connects this set up to the mainline. Giving you great flexibility in heights and positions for your sprinkler.


Rigid Riser and Asta Stake connection


  • Adjustable Height
  • Solid Asta Stake structure, keeps the spray upright
  • Flexibility in positioning due to poly tube connection
  • Poly Tube connection doesn't wear and tear the barb in the mainline when knocked or moved.
  • Easy assembly


  • More components = more price and assembly needed

Rigid Riser only connection


  • More economical
  • Easy Assembly


  • Fixed Height
  • Fixed Position
  • The spray is more susceptible to being knocked out of position.
  • When knocked, the barbed connection to the mainline wears and enlarges causing leaks.
  • These leaks if knocked around too much will leak, you'll have to plug holes and punch a new hole, next to the repair.

Sprayer Directly into Mainline connection.


  • Economical
  • If the veggie garden mainline is well above the plants, this could work.


  • When knocked, the barbed connection to the mainline wears and enlarges causing leaks.
  • These leaks if knocked around too much will leak, you'll have to plug holes and punch a new hole, next to the repair.
  • The sprayer is likely to get buried.
  • No flexibility or adjustability.
  • The sprayer will spray directly into the closest plant and not get up and over. Bad coverage


The advantage of micro sprays in veggie gardens is the droplet size and coverage. Most home veggie garden boxes are around the 1m to 2m size, which works perfectly for these micro sprays. For more extensive/wider beds, you can add a row into the middle that throws a full 360 degrees and so forth.

As you can see below, this garden bed layout allows for full coverage of the plants with minimal wastage. Sprinklers always water more, closer to the base of the sprinkler, than they do further out. Hence why we use head to head application. They are allowing each sprinkler to cover the areas that would be dry.


An example of the spray pattern and why we use head to head application


Products Used

Simple Guide to Landscape Irrigation

March 25th, 2019

Step 1: Plan Your Area

Draw a plan of the area that you want to irrigate, to scale. This should include the house, boundaries, gardens, anything that may affect the irrigation process.

Detail the taps, water supply and where you would like the controller to be. You could use a title plan, google earth, google maps, or a landscaping plan as a basis for your plan. If you haven't got any of these available, drawing on graph paper is a great way to do it.


Step 2: How much water do you have?

Firstly choose the tap you would like to use, fill a bucket with the tap on full and time how long it takes to fill, turn this into litres per minute. A rule of thumb is to use a design flow that is half of what you have measured.

The above rule of thumb is not accurate and it is possible your water supply may not be able to supply 50% of your flow test at operating pressure. If you decide to use this rule of thumb it is advisable to test your biggest zone flow with the actual sprinklers to ensure it works before you install, so adjustments to your design can be made.

It is also likely you may be able to have bigger zones, so doing a proper pressure/flow test could easily pay for itself.


(60 / Time in seconds) x bucket size in litres

Lets say you filled your 10 litre bucket in 15 seconds.

Time = 15
Litres = 10
So through the equation we have 60 Divided by 15 = 4

4 x 10 = 40 litres per minute

Max L/pm for our irrigation is 50% of this therefore 20 L/pm

Step 3: How to irrigate

Step 4: Draw it up

Draw on your plan the positions of the sprinklers, drippers, dripperline. You will need to understand what spacing to have these items at and you can read our sprinkler spacing details, or contact us and we can design it all for you.


Step 5: Break it down into zones

Write on your plan the flows of the outlets. You will now need to split your plan into irrigation zones. Your zones need to be split into the different types of irrigation types, sprinklers can not run in the same zone as drippers or dripperline, products with different water application rates should be on separate zones. Have a look at our zone split diagram.

Once you have zoned the area you will need to check that flow rates don't exceed your design flow. If it does you need to split your zones further so the total zone flow rate matches what the water supply is capable of, as per step 2.


Step 6: Draw in the pipeline

Pipe sizes, for town mains supply system is 19mm for sprinklers, and 13mm for drippers and drip line. 100 meters of drip line maximum (500 litres per hour). A pumped system you need to talk with one of our experts.

Draw in Pipelines to connect up your sprinklers in the zones that suit the flow you have available. The zone pipelines link back to the control valves (solenoid valves), these are located normally close to the water supply but can be spread out around your garden and feed by a mainline pipe.
See our pipeline layout.


Step 7: Valve Layout

Add your valves into your system, consider what is the best location for ease of access. Most systems you should group all the valves together closes to the tap connection, however if there is good savings in pipe to spread them out through the system and take wiring from the controller, this works well to.

Step 8: Landscape controller options

Choosing a controller is not easy because there is so many to choose from.

First thing you need to do is design your system and have an idea of what extensions might happen in the future.

Then decide if there will be power at the site, it is always cheaper to have a powered controller as the solenoid valves are a lot cheaper, half the cost in the 25mm size.

Then with the knowledge of how many valves you want to operate, battery or mains powered, indoor or outdoor, wifi cloud based and what sensors and features you might need. The below are the main options we see in domestic irrigation systems.


Orbit Tap Timer
You can go for an Orbit tap timer but these are restricted to flow of 1000 litres per hour, but are the cheapest option in many situations.


Hunter XC Controllers
The Hunter XC indoor and XC outdoor controllers are our biggest sellers, the price and quality is hard to pass by. The features they have take care of nearly every landscape system we come across, except they are not wifi capable.


Hunter XCH & Nodes
The Hunter XCH and node controllers are the go to for battery operated controllers, the node is great if you do not have a wall or fence to attach a controller to.

Hunter pro-c

Pro C Controllers
For the next level up the Pro C controllers if you have more than 8 valves and require some extra features.


Wifi Controllers
Then there are wifi controllers, Hydrawise and Skydrop, these are varying features that you will need to understand what suits you the most.